It happens easily in Argentina. One day you’re arriving, the great city of Buenos Aires is at your fingertips, all you’ve got on the brain is wine tasting in Menoza, hiking in Patagonia, visiting Salta (and maybe a little more wine tasting), skiing in Bariloche..meat… ah yes, la parilla argentina… And before you can even say, “I’ll have mine medium rare,” the three months on your visa are expiring and you have to make a plan.
You have three options here, one: stay as long as you want and leave via the Bolivian border at night, on foot and hoping not to get caught until you can buy an entry stamp for your passport on the black-market.
Two: wade your way through an obtuse and at times badly translated government website (www.migraciones.gov.ar) and then head downtown for a day of waiting in lines and wrestling with the seas of humanity, and pay ARG$ 300 for the pleasure.
Three: Take a leisurely ferry ride across the Rio de la Plata to Uruguay and visit the picturesque world heritage town of Colonia del Sacramento. On the way back, with no effort at all, you’ll gain another 3 wonderful months in Argentina; and all for about the same price as the fun you could have had in immigrations (if you’re careful – Colonia is a tourist town and thus can be very expensive.)
The best choice seems obvious.
The ferry across is a pleasure; you can either go with Buquebus, the most popular ferry line, on their express boat which takes just under an hour or the monstrous Elidia Isabel which takes about three hours, but gives you the option of walking around outside and getting those great shots of the city as you leave or arrive.
Prices vary massively depending on season, day of the week and time so check their website carefully. (www.buquebus.com). For the best prices book online, well in advance and early morning or late afternoon on a weekday. The advantage of the odd hours is that if your timing is right and you travel in the right season, you can hit a spectacular sunset or sunrise over the city and the harbour – a magical moment and if you are so inclined, definitely some of the best silhouette city shots you will get of Buenos Aires.
A second option is Colonia Express, a smaller operation, but it can be considerably cheaper. (www.coloniaexpress.com/ar) The ferry is quick, taking just on an hour and comfortable, although not with much in the way of duty free shopping or food and drink options. Still, with prices as low as ARG$ 116 return, it is unbeatable. A couple of things to note though, to get the lowest price, again, book online for a week day, low season and well in advance (they say two weeks, but the tickets are always snapped up by travel agencies).
One caveat is that if you only want to go for the day you have to sign up for a day trip, which can include breakfast and a guided tour (ARG$ 268) or tour and a lunch at a restaurant (ARG 298) – which is still cheaper than the immigrations headache.
Trips from Buenos Aires to Colonia and Uruguay can also be arranged by South America travel agencies. Ask about multi-destination South America tour packages.
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